Just some completely arbitrary suggestions for possible upgrade paths in case you want to spend your money on something.1
- Good computer
- Good internet upload speed
- Good headphones
- Second monitor2
- Check out HP’s $90 IPS monitor(!)
- Good microphone (USB/XLR)
- Pop filter + shock mount
- Mic stand
- Buy a ModMic to add or replace a headset microphone at a low price
- Foot pedal; great for muting and push to talk
- Stream Deck
- Accessories for ergonomics and RSI:
- Mechanical keyboard with eg brown or red switches for minimum noise4
- The newer Cherry MX “Speed” and “Silence” switches are also available for brands like Corsair
- O-rings can make them even more silent
- Good capture device for PC (or use NDI)
- New computer parts: CPU, GPU, RAM, HDD, motherboard, cooling
- Good video editor (for YouTube/Premieres)
- New gaming monitor; the biggest steps up in technology are
- 120/144 Hz
- VRR: G-Sync/FreeSync
- IPS panel (instead of VA and TN)
- HDR (poorly supported on PC so far)
- Good capture device for consoles
- Expensive (Elgato), $150
- Cheap (eBay or Amazon), $35 (HDMI splitter5 not included)
- Only one HDMI port so you’ll have to use display duplication on the OS or get an HDMI splitter
- At minimum, you will need an Ethernet cable, and in case you get a HDMI splitter, two additional HDMI cable
- Make sure you have Ethernet ports to spare on your router
- A lot of HDMI splitters have “2.0” and “4K”6 in the title but turn out to be only HDMI 1.4 or even 1.3
- Some HDMI splitters operate without a power supply; saves you some cable spaghetti
- A YubiKey for two-factor protection and passwordless log-ins
- More or better fans for your case—or a new case
- Audio interface/mixer for XLR mic (see RME Babyface Pro below)
- Better internet download speed
- Router for SQM (including QoS)
- UPS (though they can be hit and miss)
- Some premium UPSes even handle AC noise
- More extensive archival storage: external HDD and/or cloud storage7
- For HDDs, 5400 RPM “NAS” drives will be the most silent and only run for read/write. External drives or NAS are also an option, obviously.
- HDMI mCable Gaming Edition for Switch ($150)
- Streaming PC
- Enterprise, instead of private, internet subscription
- Third monitor
- Secondary fallback Internet connection
- You’ll need additional Ethernet ports which you can just get with a PCIe expansion8
- An RME Babyface Pro, the endgame gear for streamers
- An SSD for your PS4 Pro to reduce loading times—or SSHD if you want to save money
- A modular charging block for each of your console controllers by Nyko
- Mayflash MAGIC-NS adapter wired and wireless adapter for all controller types, including fightsticks9
- Raspberry Pi with Pi-hole for DNS-level blocking
And of course, pay artists, moderators, and maybe even video editors.
Maybe treat your self to a few sessions at a physical therapist, say, once a month? More info about physical therapists in the RSI guide.
And then there’re the lawyers of course.
Consider getting a 144 Hz and G-Sync monitor and making it your main one for gaming. ↩︎
I love my Dagotto, garbage build quality be damned. ↩︎
Just get a mechanical keyboard with non-clicky Cherry MX switches whose actuation is about 45–50 cN (basically browns or reds).
Usually, you will need an HDMI splitter to circumvent HDCP, but this LAN sender claims to support HDCP. Instead of using a splitter for HDCP, you can just turn off HDCP in your console settings.
How to tell if you need a splitter for HDCP? If your monitor is blank with your capture device connected!
Make sure your splitter splits one input to multiple outputs and isn’t a switch that switches between multiple inputs for one input. People sometimes refer to these as “1×2”, “1×3” etc for the number of outputs from one input source.
Whether your splitter requires A/C power usually depends on whether you use HDMI cables longer than ~2.5m. An “active” HDMI splitter means it uses a power supply. Some support both.
The types of splitters usually come down to 1080p60, 4Kp30, and 4Kp60. ↩︎
“4K” is not just 4K, if sellers and manufacturers don’t specify, it probably means 4Kp30 or 24p. You might also want to make sure it works with HDR. Add to this the complexities of HDCP 2.2.
Make sure you set up dual Ethernet connections up correctly rather than just plugging in the both of them and confusing the hell out of your computer and network. ↩︎
It is recommended that you update the firmware on the adapter when you get it as it doesn’t tend to ship with the latest version; check out the changelog in the description on the product page. Might be daunting for some to fiddle with firmware updates, so keep this in mind. ↩︎
Or the equivalent of an LLC in your country. ↩︎